Some of the Lycian Way without camping

For me, the Lycian ruins are the main attraction of the region, but certainly the sea and mountains are very beautiful.  So I will suggest that you spend your time amongst the ruins!  However, if you prefer the mountains, let me know and I will suggest an alternative.  The mountains though are difficult, but not impossible, to do without camping.

Please note that there is more accommodation available along the Lycian Way now.  Please check here first.

 

WALKING:

We averaged 20 kilometers per day, which is considered "fast".  I think that translates as the terrain is fairly difficult.  The kilometers don't mean much anyway.  We normally walked 10 - 12 hours per day when camping, and aimed to get into the towns by midday.  You can get an idea of the times here.

If you are very fit and travel lightly, you could cut about 25-30% off these times, but that doesn’t allow for much smelling of the flowers.

 

ACCOMMODATION & FOOD:

The “villages” are not always occupied.  Some are abandoned because there is no longer water; some are used only seasonally by the shepherds.  The Lycian Trail follows the traditional migratory paths in places so you will walk through villages, but do not depend on obtaining food and accommodation there.  You will not find meat, cheese, bread, vegetables, milk, honey etc in any village store as the locals produce their own.  The Turks are incredibly friendly and generous though and you would not be turned away from a private house.  The opposite - if you accept every invitation you would get nowhere!

The main towns have all supplies.  These are Fethiye, Xanthos, Patara (Gelemis), Kalkan, Kas, Ucagiz, Myra (Kale), Finike, Kumluca, Olympus, Goynuk, and Antalya.  Some supplies are also available at Bogazici (very limited), Letoon, Bezirgan (very limited) Adrasan (also accommodation) and Beycik.

The main towns will have Guest Houses; some even have Hotels!  If you want to stay anywhere except at the main towns, you should take a down sleeping bag (and maybe a ThermaRest).  A sleeping bag will allow you much more flexibility along the Way, without the weight of a tent or cooking equipment.  I recommend that you take one.

 

 WEATHER:

It can be cold at night, especially in the mountains, depending on the time of year.  Bring warm clothes in you want to go into the mountains.  Click for some weather statistics for Antalya or Dalaman (Fethiye).

Here is the Turkish State Meteorological Service site http://www.meteor.gov.tr/2003eng/forecast/weather.htm

The Way is not all coastal.  If you download the planning maps, you can get an idea of the approximate altitudes (show elevations in 250 meter intervals), and thus temperatures. http://www.senderos.awswa.com/Turkey/maps.html

 

PERSONAL FAVORITE PLACES:

These were some highlights (in order of the Way, not importance).  Personal favorites bolded. 

 

SUGGESTED ITINERARY:

(Non-walking sections bolded)

It is possible to get from Fethyie to Kalkan without camping with some long walking days.  Follow the Way as we did http://www.senderos.awswa.com/Turkey/25_days_in_lycia.htm except:

Start at Fethiye (all facilities).  Avoid the famous Olu Deniz – hopelessly touristed!

Stay at Faralya (George House – tree house, traditional Turkish food.  Ask for a take away lunch for the next day.)  You might be able to get a boat from Fethyie and climb up the Butterfly Valley, which would be great.  You will need a sleeping bag, I think.  But maybe they have blankets – you can check with them (also re boat from Fethiye): http://www.geocities.com/george_house/ 

Ask around in Bogazici to stay in a private house (might need a sleeping bag & Thermarest).

Instead of camping on the Pydnai beach, you could stay at a place just past Gauvuragili, before Pydnai.  (Looks like a hotel - advertises beer and hot water!  It's in Kate's updates).  There is nothing much in Gauvuragili itself, but you might be able to put up in a house there.  Also the water is hard to find – ask around if there is anyone there.  (Otherwise hitch to Xanthos).

Xanthos is a small, scruffy town, but there is accommodation.  Imagine walking along a Roman aqueduct that is still in use!  It is just past Xanthos.

Make Kalkan in a long day - 21 klms.  Bus from Akbel down to Kalkan (nothing worth seeing).

The next day walk to Patara (Gelemis) via Delikkemer.  This is a fantastic walk, mostly missed by those short of time.  I think it was a real highlight.  You will see how the Romans made water run uphill at Delikkemer.  Stay the night in any of the small family run pensions at Gelemis, explore the Patara ruins, and swim at the Patara beach.

Then take a bus back to Kalkan (you might have to change at Akbel).  This is not a very interesting walk.

From Kalkan take a bus to Kas (or 3 days walk).  It would not be possible to do this section without camping.

Kas is another pretty tourist coastal village.  From Kas you could walk backwards the Way to Phellos (We very much liked this, although others were disappointed).  This would be a full day walk return.

From Kas, take a small boat over to Liman Agazi for a nice change (or you can walk too). Then walk to Ucagiz.  To do this without camping is a long day.  You would have to forego the boat ride so you can leave Kas earlier!  After you pass the ruins at Aperlae you will come to a small isolated restaurant on the opposite end of the peninsula.  You can get the owner to run you over to Ucagiz in his boat.  Might as well as the walk isn't that exciting.  Alternatively sleep on the roof of the restaurant (again sleeping bag & Thermarest needed).  Don’t worry, you won’t miss the restaurant – there are signs everywhere!  TAKE PLENTY OF WATER ON THIS SECTION - AT LEAST 4 LITERS EACH.  It is very exposed initially, but very nice walking in the last part.

You can spend a couple of days at Ucagiz and take a boat tour to the sunken city (Kekova Island) and Simena – most impressive.  Must see.  Ucagiz itself isn't much.  We have kayaked this region previously http://www.senderos.awswa.com/Turkey/Kayaking/phpslideshow.php?directory=.

From Ucagiz, take a bus to Myra (Kale).  These are famous ruins.

Take the bus to Finike.  You could do this in one day from Ucagiz, whilst still seeing the Myra ruins.

We really liked the Belos ruins (camped there).  So if you want you can walk back from Finike.  Finike is nothing much, but you can feed and drink well.

The next section from Finike to Adrasan via the Lighthouse is definitely best done with a camp at the Lighthouse.  It would be possible to walk it in a long day, preferably with an overnight stop for an early start from Karaoz, where you should find accommodation and there is a small store.  Take a bus from Finike to Mavikent.  This is just a 30 kilometer stretch of 4-lane highway – nothing.  Don’t even think about walking it!  The Lighthouse to Adrasan section is difficult.  You will need plenty of water.  There may not be any at the Lighthouse.  Adrasan has accommodations, small stores, restaurants and refreshing swimming.

Or take a bus from Finike to Olympos.  Here are excellent ruins.  Great swimming.  Stay in a "tree house" but hideously commercialized.  Cold when we were there in October (again requires sleeping bag).  You can go up to the Chimera (eternal flame) – best done at night.

From Olympos, take the bus to Antalya.  Antalya is a nice old city, but a bit daunting after the isolation of the Way.  There is an excellent Museum there too.

 

TRANSPORT:

From Istanbul to Fethyie there are (only) overnight buses.  About 13 hours, clean, cheap and pretty comfortable.  Otherwise fly to Dalaman.  Likewise Antalya to Istanbul.   More information here.

Buses are plentiful and cheap all over Turkey.  Taxis are reasonable options too.

Turks don’t walk!  So they will stop and offer you a lift especially off the beaten track.  Hitching is OK.

 

THE WAY BACK TO ISTANBUL:

If you have time, a stopover at Ephesus on the way back to Istanbul is worthwhile.  Hordes of tourists, but you can see why.  Stay at Selcuk nearby for an early start.  This is a very famous ancient city where parts of the Christian Bible were written.   

 

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