The Province of Soria in Castilla y León has one of the lowest population densities in Europe meaning the towns are far apart – too far to walk; for example 58 kms from Agreda to Soria. However, perhaps because of this isolation, there are some really lovely old villages and we took a bus to a few.
Almazan, Arabic for Fortificada (Fortified), was on the frontier between the Arab and the Christian worlds in the 10th & 11th centuries and then a center of dispute between the kingdoms of Aragon and Castile in the 14th century.
Main entrance opens onto the beautiful plaza Built during 12th &13th century fortifications; the clock tower added in 1886The huge plaza of Almazan with its 15th century Palace where the Catholic Monarchs resided for a timePalace of the Hurtado de Mendoza reflected in the DueroChurch of San Miguel, 12th century Romanesque is the highlight of AlmazanYemas, made of egg yolks and sugar, are a sweet dessert typical of AlmazánThe Station Master changes the signal while we wait for the train at Almazan
Soria
07 & 08 May 2019
During the 10th & 11th centuries, Soria was strategically important because of its location on the Duero, which marked the boundary between Christian and Muslim domains. King Alfonso VIII (1158-1214) was born in Soria and the city flourished in the 13th century.
You can see the dozen or so sights by following the pavement markers (left).
Concatedral San Pedro erected in the 12th-13th centuries, rebuilt in the 16th centurySan Pedro cloister was completed in 1205 with a variety of capitals with different decorationsChurch of Santo Domingo, late 12th century RomanesqueEntrance to Santo Domingo elaborated with Biblical characters and scenesConvent of Santa Clara founded 1224San Juan de Rabanera, named after the origin of those who repopulated Soria after the 12th century conquestPalace of the Counts of Gómara de Soria finished in 159212th century Romanesque cloisters of Monastery of San Juan de Duero on the banks of the River One of the most exceptional cloistered spaces in the worldHermitage of San Saturio, built in the late seventeenth century hanging on the rocky side of the Duero “With boldness and bravery and insight for all generations to come an incomparable visual impact” Soria Market in Plaza de Bernardo Robles, since 1830Torreznos (pork crackling), a typical tapa in every bar in Soria
What a surprise. A short walk from the bus stop in the new city and we were in the 18th century main Plaza. The winding arcaded main street with shops and houses supported with 125 columns of stone or wood, was deserted at 3pm. We turned a corner and there was the huge Gothic Cathedral.
Hospital of San Agustín in Castilian-Baroque style finished in 1704Calle Major connects the medieval Cathedral Square and the 18th-century Town SquareTurned a corner and suddenly the Cathedral, classical Gothic style with a majestic Baroque tower.Defensive Wall and San Miguel Gate constructed 1458, restored Roman bridge crosses the Ucero River to connect the Church of Santa Cristina with the Osma Castle18th century Church of Santa Cristina houses relics of the 3rd century SaintCastle of Osma, from the 10th century
El Burgo de Osma – San Esteban de Gormaz
11 May 2019
There are two ways to walk from El Burgo de Osma to San Esteban de Gormaz. Acting on local advice we took the longer route which follows the Camino Cid to join the Senda del Duero. It was a good choice, easy and interesting walking. 18.5 km in 4 hours 20 minutes.
The Route of El Cid runs 1497 kms from Burgos to AlicanteLeaving El Burgo on Camino CidA short diversion into tiny Alcubilla del Marqués beneath the conical hill with its … … stunning Gothic church of Romanesque origins Inscription in latin indicates reconstruction in 1591. The Templar cross in white imported stone is a mystery Traditional bodegas near Pedraja de San Esteban – excavated in the clay soil and reinforced with stoneOne of the mud brick houses in Pedraja de San Esteban, population 15Senda del Duero Stage 7 a very nice path along the River
Medieval 16 arch bridge over the Duero at San Estaban, built 16th century still carries trafficIglesia de la Virgen del Rivero, 12th century Romanesque built on the ruins of a previous templeCastle of San Esteban de Gormaz, visible from afar One of the key Duero castles changed rulers several times during the 10th and 11th centuriesBodegas carved into the hillside below the Castle Church of San Miguel, Romanesque. Date of construction: 1081, according to the inscription carved in the gallery.Coats of Arms emblazoned on houses belonging to noble families
